5 p.m. on Via Chiavettieri is when balconies drop buckets, euros clattering in metal pails over rusted railings.
Read MoreOver the last month, I’ve watched my landscape change from outside train windows and have stepped into small towns, new worlds. Entering a new season is as simple as reaching the next region.
Read MoreFlorence is made for the glow of the early morning the same way she’s made for autumn air and history books.
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